Will womenswear designers ever tire of juxtaposing masculine and feminine elements in their collections? As if!
Erdem Moralıoğlu delivered a humdinger of a collection Sunday afternoon that brilliantly mashed up showgirl feathers, boudoir lingerie and sparkly panties aplenty with high-collared Edwardian shirts, jaunty tuxedo jackets and mannish woolen coats.
Staged at the Roadhouse, a concert venue in Camden, the show had drama to spare as models stormed out in their crystal-studded bodysuits and soigné tailoring, parting the dry ice drifting across the floor in the pitch-black space.
Moralıoğlu has a penchant for gender-bending historical figures and this season settled on Barbette, a Texas-born man who became an avant-garde sensation in 1920s Paris as a curly haired trapeze artist in a sparkly bra and a feathery skirt.
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A muse to Cocteau, and a sitter for Man Ray, Barbette (the stage name of Vander Clyde Broadway) could also be seen in a gangster-worthy double-breasted suit and fedora on Moralıoğlu’s mood board backstage, where he was swarmed by well-wishers.
“It was all about the tension between male and female,” he said during the backstage scrum, always one of ...