Queen Victoria loved the French Riviera – and who can blame her? The aging widow first visited in 1882 and returned many times, delighting in its zinging colours, vibrant culture and stunning nature.
Why autumn is the best time to go
These days, July-August is peak season, but not in the days of Victoria. Instead, the shimmering Cote d’Azur used to be the place to overwinter. From the mid-18th century this sleepy spot began attracting wellness-seekers looking to escape the seasonal gloom; the royal seal of approval saw numbers boom. Elegant parks, hotels and villas were built, with Nice a particular hub for aristocrats. Indeed, in 2021, Unesco designated “Nice, Winter Resort Town of the Riviera” a World Heritage site.
“In summer, it’s mass tourism – people come to drink, party and sit in the sun,” said the guide Gaëtan Onteniente as we sat in the jungly garden of the cool Hôtel Windsor, submerged in bamboo and bougainvillea. “Winter is when the most interesting people come.” Did that make me interesting? It was October, and I’d left a chilling UK for Nice, where the sun was dazzling, the temperature was in the mid-20°Cs and autumn seemed a distant prospect.
The role of a Nice Greet...